royal navy gold lace CREDIT MOD.jpg — The highly decorative gold embroidery that adorns Royal Navy uniforms were first introduced in 1748 (Picture: MOD)

Naval History

Going for gold: Is the braid used on Royal Navy officers' uniforms really made of precious metal?

The 'curl' on the upper row of gold lace was first introduced to Royal Navy uniforms on 11 April 1856 – 167 years ago.

The curl is a loop of real gold braid that appears above an officer's rank insignia on their epaulettes and on the cuffs of their sleeves.

According to Royal Museums Greenwich, the curl on the upper row of cuff lace was introduced for executive officers' uniforms, to distinguish them from officers of the civil branch.

But from 1918 onwards, the gold curl was worn by all branches.

Is the gold real?

West Yorkshire company Wyedean Weaving Co Ltd, which supplies the Navy's tailors with Gold Gilt Wire Naval Lace, makes the lace using real gold, which is electroplated onto a fine copper core, provides sufficient strength for it to be woven.

Originally formed in Coventry, the company has been trading since 1852, and says it's possible its forebears were involved in the development of the original lace. The factory was destroyed in November 1940 during the Blitz however, and all records were lost.

A 25-metre reel costs around £750 and the company supplies the Royal Navy and other naval forces with around 3,000 metres per year, with each 25-metre batch taking around 10 days to make.

The supplier of military insignia also makes Royal Navy service dress epaulettes, using a much cheaper synthetic gold, and has produced nearly 7,000 pairs in the past two years.

Wyedean Weaving Co Ltd is based at Bridgehouse Mill in Haworth, West Yorkshire, and in 2024 celebrates its 60-year anniversary of being based in Haworth and in Wright family ownership.

David in 1942 Wyedean Weaving Co Ltd .jpg — Founding member David Wright proudly wearing his uniform in 1942, featuring gold lace that his company would 25 years later go on to weave (Picture: Wyedean Weaving Co Ltd)

The founding member of the company, David Wright, served in the Royal Navy's Fleet Air Arm as a fighter pilot during the Second World War, serving in the Battle of Atlantic on Cam (catapult aircraft merchant) ships and in the Mediterranean on HMS Formidable during the North Africa, Sicily and Italy campaigns.

In 2010, the Royal Canadian Navy reintroduced the executive curl to mark its 100th anniversary.

The curl lacing had been dropped when the branches of the Canadian armed forces were unified in 1968.