'An inspiration to many of us': First Sea Lord leads tributes to Nirmal 'Nims' Purja

The First Sea Lord and fellow former Gurkha Hari Budha Magar have led tributes to record-breaking mountaineer Nirmal 'Nims' Purja, who has died aged 43.

Purja and nine other climbers were killed after being caught in an avalanche on Broad Peak in Pakistan on Thursday.

General Sir Gwyn Jenkins, the head of the Royal Navy, said: "Tragic news, he was an inspiration to many of us.

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"My thoughts are with his family and friends and for the others who lost their lives," the First Sea Lord posted on X. 

Nims spent six years with the Brigade of Gurkhas before becoming the first Gurkha to join the Special Boat Service in 2009.

Hari Budha Magar, a former Gurkha who became the first double above-knee amputee to climb Mount Everest, addressed Nims as his brother in a deeply personal tribute.

"The world needed you, brother. You went too soon and too young. The world and Nepal needed you," he wrote.

"I knew your mission was bigger than you and mountains. That's what drove you to achieve what you have achieved. That's called PURPOSE."

Mr Budha Magar lost both legs above the knee in an IED blast while on foot patrol in Afghanistan in 2010 and later took up mountaineering.

He said he had learnt from Nims's achievements: "No one is perfect, we all have our weaknesses but it didn't define you. You overcame and excelled from that.

"Nepal and the world lost a true inspiration and legend."

Mr Budha Magar said he had served alongside Nims's father-in-law in 3 Platoon, 1st Battalion The Royal Gurkha Rifles, while Mingma David Sherpa, one of Nims's climbing partners, had helped teach him to climb.

Offering his condolences to Nims's wife, daughter and wider family, as well as the families of the other climbers, he wrote: "Brother, please rest in peace with your team till we see up there."

Prince William remembers 'truly unique' mountaineer

The Prince of Wales said he was "truly saddened" by the deaths on Broad Peak and praised the adventurer's service and his contribution to Nepalese mountaineering.

"Nims served with distinction in the British Armed Forces before becoming one of the world's greatest mountaineers, putting Nepalese climbers on the map," Prince William said.

"His relentless pursuit of what seemed impossible, combined with his humility and selflessness, made him truly unique.

"My thoughts are with his family and the families of all those who died."

The message, published by the official Kensington Palace account, was signed 'W', indicating it came from the Prince alone.

Defence Secretary Wes Streeting also remembered Nims as "an inspirational man" whose mountaineering achievements were known around the world.

"Incredibly sad to learn of the passing of Nirmal (Nims) Purja and those he was climbing with," he said.

"He was an inspirational man who served in our Armed Forces for many years – and whose incredible mountaineering adventures are known the world over. 

"My condolences to those mourning."

From Gurkhas to world's highest mountains

Nims joined the Brigade of Gurkhas in 2003, aged 18, before transferring to the Special Boat Service six years later.

His military career lasted 16 years and included a decade with the SBS, where he became a cold-weather warfare specialist.

Speaking to BFBS Forces News before embarking on his best-known mountaineering challenge, Nims explained how his military training and values had prepared him for life at extreme altitude.

"You know, I was born in Nepal and was the best of the Gurkhas and also trained by one of the best units in the United Kingdom," he said.

"So I'm the full composition of everything, I guess. Training, the values and everything put me into a lot better position."

Nims gained international recognition in 2019 when he climbed all 14 mountains higher than 8,000 metres in 189 days, cutting more than seven years from the previous record.

The challenge, known as Project Possible, was documented in the Netflix film 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible.

In 2021, he was part of the 10-strong Nepalese team that completed the first winter ascent of K2, reaching the summit together while singing Nepal's national anthem.

He was appointed an MBE in 2018 for his achievements in extreme high-altitude mountaineering.